www.sdmodelaclub.com

MODEL A RESTORERS CLUB OF SAN DIEGO INC. 

TECHNICAL REPORT:  New technical tips are posted in each Quail Call

UPCOMING TECHNICAL SEMINAR None scheduled for now!

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 TECHNICAL SEMINAR MAY 22, 2010 :  The Hansen Ford Garage in Ramona, CA was the site of the REBUILDING the MODEL A DIFFERENTIAL seminar.  Nearly 40 Model A enthusiasts from the Palomar and San Diego Model A Clubs enjoyed hearing and seeing the various steps necessary to restore and assemble the Model A rear end.

Many uses of K R Wilson tools were demonstrated. Using these old precision built tools greatly simplify the work involved in disassembly and assembly of the various components of the rear end. One of the most difficult jobs is the removal of the bearing cups; however, with the proper K R Wilson tool, this job is a piece of cake.  The same can be said of the axle grease seals.  Removal is easy with a long drift punch but the installation is difficult, unless you have the proper tool, then it is easy.

An important note from the seminar -- Dropping the spider gears on the floor after greasing them is optional and not a necessary step in the rebuilding process!!

Bill’s method of machining the differential gear case eliminates the use of the shim gaskets on each side of the differential housing.  The use of RTV between the axle shaft housing and the differential housing makes for a leak free installation.

At the end of the morning the differential was assembled and tested.  A special thanks to Bill and Sue Hansen for hosting this event

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Technical Learning Workshop - March 13, 2010.  Despite overcast skies, 45 San Diego and Palomar Model A enthusiasts drove down oak-covered Mussey Grade Road to the Hansen Garage near Ramona.  The usual cast of animals, including peacocks, guineas, dogs, cats and Pepito the donkey, were waiting to greet everyone.  Pepito actually belongs to the neighbor.  Bill and Sue borrow Pepito to keep the grass and weeds trimmed and to fertilize the grass and weeds at the same time!!!  What a unique idea. 

Most Model A owners have heard about “pouring Babbitt” but few have actually watched the process.  The purpose of this gathering was to learn about pouring Babbitt bearings in the Model A engine. The engine block bearing saddles were cleaned and prepared for the pouring. The K. R. Wilson Combination Machine apparatus was bolted to the engine block and the 900-degree Babbitt was poured.  The apparatus was removed and the Babbitt trimmed. Then the bearings were line bored.   Many questions were asked about the process and discussion   followed.  Thanks to Bill  Sue Hansen for hosting this event

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FEBUARY 13, 2010:  The first technical session of the year was held on this bright, sunny morning among the large oak trees in the countryside near Ramona, CA. The exact location was the Hanson Ford Garage, a dream garage for all Model A enthusiasts.  In attendance were members of the Palomar Model A Club and the San Diego Model A Club. Over 40 people watched as a leakless-greaseless water pump was machined and assembled for all to see. Then a rebuilt engine bolted in an engine stand was started and several members brought their carburetors to be tested on the new engine.  Some of the carburetors ran perfectly; others needed some rebuilding.  A couple of the carburetors idled the engine at 250 rpm; nearly slow enough to count the blades on the fan!!

During the morning, 3 dozen donuts, 30 cups of coffee, a quart of orange juice, half a jug of apple juice, a box of chocolates, several bottles of water, several cans of Pepsi and 4 boxes of Girl Scout cookies disappeared -- based on the food consumption, everyone must have had a great time!!!!

A special thanks to Bill and Sue Hansen for their hospitality and the use of their country home and garage.  

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  BATTERY MAINTENANCE

     1. CAUTION!  Batteries are highly explosive, especially after recharging.  Avoid sparks or open flame near batteries.

2.  Keep battery top clean and dry. (Use solution of water and baking soda)  Use caution not to get solution into cells.  A dirty battery top can cause current loss.

3. Clean battery posts and cables with suitable cleaner.  Install anti-corrosive pad under cable ends, or grease over top of cable ends. Do not strike battery posts or cables with a hammer or severe damage can result.  If cable is stuck to post, use a suitable puller.

4. Inspect for proper battery hold down installation.  Make sure hold down is clean and securely tightened.  An excessively tightened clamp can crack or damage a battery case.  A loose battery can be damaged by harsh movement within the battery carrier.

5. Check electrolyte level at least once a month.  If battery uses an excessive amount of water, the charging rate will cause corroded cables, premature battery and light bulb failure.

6. If a battery becomes discharger, it is best to recharge it with a slow (trickle) charge for at least 12 hours, when possible.  NOTE:  Be Sure charger is unplugged for power source before connecting or disconnecting from battery to avoid any chance of sparks.

7. A well tuned engine, a good starting and charging system will help the battery last to its maximum life expectancy

       Reprinted from March 1993 Quail Call written by Jack Rabell

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  SERVICE INFORMATION

      If a steering wheel is installed so that one of the spokes in the wheel obstructs the driver’s view of the speedometer the condition can be corrected by removing steering wheel and turning it so that the line of vision to the speedometer is midway between the spokes in the wheel  (see Figure 466)   To remove steering wheel on cars equipped with present design lighting switch, unsnap lighting switch bail and remove lighting switch and wire assembly.  Press upward on operating spider and lift out spider retainer.  Spider and retainer will then slip off of shaft. Next pull the lighting switch handle and horn switch assembly back sufficiently far to permit screwing off the steering wheel nut, Steering wheel can then be withdrawn from shaft.  Turning the wheel one spline on the shaft is usually sufficient to insure unobstructed view of speedometer. On 1930 and 1931 models the wood ruff key on shaft can be moved to other keyway in hub of wheel.  

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FUEL FILTER PATENT: 

    Last month was the end of the series on the patent numbers that appear on the firewall patent date plate.  Hope I peaked your interest and satisfied your curiosity.  I have one more patent article I found originally published in “Ford Dealer & Service Field and subsequently in Nov/Dec 1993 RESTORER.  Patent number 1,629,493 was granted to Henry Ford on July 10, 1928.  (application filed February 14, 1927).  Henry states “The object of my invention is to provide a fuel filtering screen of simple, durable, and inexpensive construction; to provide a fuel filtering screen of especially adapted for use in connection with automotive vehicles, and having a minimum number of parts, and which may be conveniently and readily installed, removed and replaced; to provide a fuel filtering screen which will allow free filtering through of as much or more fuel than will be allowed to enter the screen by a fuel nozzle placed in the fuel tank; to provide in combination with my filtering screen a protecting guard which will prevent the fuel nozzle from rupturing the screen when being inserted or taken out of the fuel tank;  to provide in combination with my filtering screen a guard which will allow free movement of the fuel through it, and which will hold the screen in position and present a minimum of contact surface between it and the screen so as to allow minimum area of the screen to be used for filtering the fuel; to provide a filter screen which is so constructed and installed that will prevent a flame, originated outside of the fuel tank, from entering the tank, thereby preventing the probability of damage from a possible explosion of the fuel tank”.